Lisbon is by the sea, but the castle, Castelo do S. Jorge, is at the top of a steep hill. It’s a climb, and the streets are cobbled, and we stayed in a great hotel near the top. It can be a hard walk, especially in the heat, but it’s worth it not only for the great views, but for the fresh air and the sense of wellbeing imparted by being above the clamour of Lisbon.

The Museu Coleção Berardo is the main Modern and Contemporary Art Museum in Lisbon. And presents examples from the most significant artistic movements from the twentieth century to the present day. Just look at the lists of artists! Just look at the paintings, the sculptures.

Some of the art almost brought me to tears.

It also has an absolutely excellent cafe, with a calm and peaceful atmosphere, great food, and all at reasonable prices which I highly recommend. To sum up, an excellent cafe with a world class art gallery attached.

The Igreja de São Domingos church in Lisbon is classified as a National Monument. Dedicated in 1241, the largest church in Lisbon was once the home of the Inquisition. The church was damaged by the 1531 Lisbon earthquake and almost completely destroyed in the 1755 earthquake. In 1959 the church was devastated again when fire broke out in the building. It almost completely gutted the church, destroying many important paintings and statues. In 1994 it reopened and wonderfully, the restoration left many signs of the fire in place, making an incredibly atmospheric space.

In Lisbon, you take the tram. Its compulsory. It’s the best way to get around the barrios, and quite an experience. A short tram ride outside Lisbon lies Belem and there sits the Mosteiro dos Jerónimos, a World Heritage Site. When we visited, they seemed to lay on a bit of a reception for us, hundreds of horses, soldiers in full dress uniform, the roads shut to traffic. The monastery was mindblowing, and inspired me to paint its’ dramatic arches, intricate carvings and soaring pillars.